I really like the lines of Marcy's new hoodie pattern. As she describes it... My new hoodie pattern keeps the functionality with a feminine dash of sophistication.
I decided to give it a go!
I did have to make a few changes...
-I lengthened the sleeves, of course
-I dropped the waist so it lined up with mine
-Marcy had the pockets follow the line from the back waist seam around to the front, which is a nice design detail. But I found the opening a bit awkward to get my hand in comfortably, so I changed the angle of the opening to be more like a traditional hoodie pocket.
-I took a bit of fullness out of the lower back section
I made a few more changes when I selected the fabric that I wanted to use from my stash. As usual, I was a bit shy of the required yardage. (go figure!)
-I shortened the hood just a tad to conserve yardage.
-I cut the sleeves in two pieces...the main sleeve with the grain going the 'right' direction, and a cuff with the grain going in the other direction. Again, to conserve yardage.
-I cut all the seam allowances to 3/8 inch
-I made the front facings a bit narrower...and was able to get all the pieces I needed. Whew!
The fabric that I chose is a stable, wool jersey (think ponte in weight), that was a lighter taupe/gray on one side and a darker version of the same color on the reverse side. I couldn't decide which one I liked better so I decided to make the hoodie completely reversible. (Which of course would be a great thing to know BEFORE cutting out the pattern!!!!!)
Most of the details worked just fine for a reversible jacket.
I decided to finish the lighter side by opening and stitching down the seam allowances. Since I had already cut them to 3/8" I had to be careful to keep the seam allowances straight, no trimming allowed! I used a thread that matched the darker side so if my stitching was a bit crookity it wouldn't be obvious. I used a zigzag stitch to sew down the seam allowances.
To reduce bulk, I used raw edge construction with zigzag stitching on the pockets and facings. Figuring out how to place the interfacing for the front edges was a bit of a challenge. I pressed it onto the light side and folded it so the dark side formed the front facing. The hems were done the same way.
I really don't like the "standard" reversible button and buttonhole configuration, with a button sewn right next to the buttonhole. I find it clumsy and not very attractive, and difficult to use.
I decided that snaps would be a more aesthetic solution. I use Snapsource snaps. Not only are they a great product, they are made by an inventor right here in Michigan! Snap!
Instead of using the plain silver ring on one side of the snaps, I used the decorative head on both sides. I didn't realize it until I tried the hoodie on, but doing the snaps this way means the closing is right over left on both sides! Sweet!
The pockets were probably the most challenging design detail of the project.
I had cut the 'patch pocket' for the original pattern before I decide to go completely reversible. I didn't have enough in the scrap pile to make a second set of patch pockets for the reverse side, so, I made the patch pocket an inch taller by adding a binding to finish the top and I made a large "bound buttonhole" that is just a bit lower than the top of the patch pocket so it doesn't show from the other side. I do have to be careful to get my hand into the pocket and not drop my tissue through the other pocket opening!
It was quite an engineering challenge, but fun to figure how to make both sides of the hoodie work.
No worries about what to do with the leftovers!
And, I still don't have a favorite side!