Showing posts with label twill tape. Show all posts
Showing posts with label twill tape. Show all posts

3.02.2021

A Little Challenge for 2021

 2021 has been looking suspiciously like 2020.  The main similarity being the inability to plan anything!  I do realize that there are yogis out there who spend their whole lives trying to be present in the moment, but the present moment does not inspire me right now!  I need a heading, something to point my compass at....nothing monumental or earth shaking, just a little something out there in the wilderness to make my way toward.  Since traveling is still a big unknown it can't be an anticipated vacation, or visits with friends and family.  After considering a few options I landed on a sewing challenge.  What and when I sew is pretty much in my control and that is what I need, something that doesn't depend on "acts of God" or the whims of politicians.   I have been having a bit of trouble getting my 'sewjo' going and thought some kind of challenge for myself would get me moving and keep me going.  

I thought about joining in on the "make nine" challenge that many people do, but it requires that you choose nine patterns and nine fabrics that you want to make over the year.  This is just not possible for my brain.  I never really know what I will be sewing until I'm doing it.  The idea of choosing NOW what I want to be sewing in September?...I don't see it.  

I have a sewing buddy who got herself a whole bolt of white linen.  She wants to make a pile of white shirts.  Ever since she mentioned this it has been rolling around in my head.  I decide I would do a 'white shirt' challenge this year.  I made a few last summer and it was fun and challenging to make each one it's own thing.  I love playing with different textures and weights of fabric, the style possibilities go on and on, and choosing white fabric on line is much more doable than trying to match colors!  I am targeting one shirt a month...doable but not strict...I'm not going to beat myself up if I don't get 12 in the year.  In fact, since this is March already I only have 10 months left anyway! 

This idea took shape during the last week of February.  If I was going to start in February it was going to have to happen right away.  C'mon sewjo don't fail me now.  Not at the starting line!  I masked up and made a quick trip to my corner (literally on the same street) fabric store and came up with a white canvas duck cloth.  ...I said it was going to be a challenge!  I also found some metal buttons and twill tape, here we go.  Talk about staring at a blank canvas...😏


The weight of the fabric suggested a shirt-jacket of some kind.  I pulled out my Tabula Rasa pattern as a starting point.  I love the sleeve of this pattern and it would work well with my canvas.  Topstitching also came into the plan...back to the corner for heavy duty thread.

One of the things I really like about the Tabula Rasa is the sewing order.  I like getting the collar and front details finished before adding the bulk of sleeves to the mix.  



The metal buttons had little slots that I threaded the twill tape through.  I stitched the tape to the center front between the buttons.  I got all six buttonholes perfect in the first go!!!  Too bad they were all 1/2" to low for the buttons!!!!  Argggggggg.  The sound one makes when ripping out five perfect buttonholes!  

Once the fronts, back and collar are ready, the sleeves and side panels are connected and the seam is done in one pass from the front hem over the shoulder to the back hem.  No fussing around in little confined arm holes.  This construction method is also great for adding topstitching details.



I added some extra topstitching to define the pocket....(hard to see it with all the white!)


So there you have it, the first of my white shirts (I'll have to come up with a catchy name for my challenge, maybe for March.)  A white canvas shirt-jacket.  I think it will be perfect for breezy evening walks to the beach.  




I'm not sure if it will continue the rest of the year, but having this little challenge got me motivated and sewing in the last week of February.  I'm already ruminating about the March shirt.  We'll call it a good start!

4.02.2017

Tried and True

 One of my wardrobe staples has become my Smartwool 1/4 zip tops.  They are pretty much a three season (and even a summer option for cool evenings!) item for me.  I have been collecting them for several years and now have a pretty respectable selection. (Yes, I own the gray and white striped one in the picture!) 

The weight is comfortable, the fabric is great...it wicks, it washes, it hangs dry without a wrinkle...I can wear them alone or under sweaters and jackets, the sleeves are extra long.  They are pretty much the perfect top for me.

Since they are already a 'Tried and true' option, I figured I couldn't go wrong using them as inspiration for a dress version.

The fabric I wanted to use was not wool jersey, but the weight was similar and the knit was a bit more stable which I thought would be nice for a longer, dress style.  I used my 'favorite T' pattern and added several inches to the hem, made a stand up collar band and added the zipper to the center front.



 To give the zipper a bit more 'flare' I added some wide twill tape over the zipper tape.  The tape came from an unlikely source...when you get something at Eileen Fisher you take it home in a lovely shopping bag with, you guessed it, wide, gray twill tape handles!  I don't keep the bags, but the twill tape is just too good to let go.  

I also used it to stabilize and face the edge of the pocket openings.  I sewed the twill tape to the edges and turned it to the inside and stitched it down, then just applied the pockets like patch pockets, lining up the edges with the side seams of the dress.  It makes them look like 'in-seam' pockets.

The twill tape makes another appearance as the facings for a walking split at the center back hem.




I am totally psyched about my new 1/4 zip dress!  It is all the things I love about the Smartwool tops...in a dress.  I think I may have a new wardrobe staple!