2020 in the Rearview Mirror...Whew!

I have been noticing that many folks on Instagram or in their blogs have been doing a bit of 2020 review.  Now, I am not too excited about looking too closely at the year from you-know-where, but I did do some sewing and a little stock taking in that area is always interesting.  I find that each year there are a few themes that pop up.  Some are things that I want to remember and keep, others are, well, meh?  So here are a few observations from the past year...

My love affair with Merchant and Mills was only enhanced by a wonderful week long workshop in adorable Rye, England.  I didn't know it at the time of course, but it would be the last time in 2020 that I actually spent time with anyone except my husband!!!!  (I do have to say how incredibly fortunate I am to have someone that, even after 34 years, I still am glad to hang out with...even though this year has definitely tested those limits.😬)

The best part of any workshop for me is getting to see things in person.  I was very surprised by the patterns I actually chose to make.  They were definitely not the ones I would have expected and I am so happy that I tried them I have used all of them several times since bringing them home to the US.

One of the themes that has dominated the past several years has been BAGS!  You may be happy to hear that the bag trend waned a bit in 2020.  Maybe since I was not going anywhere that required packing, new bags were not top of mind.  I did make the first prototype of a fold over messenger style bag/backpack.  I think it will need a few more trial balloons before it is ready for primetime.  I am hoping that I will need a new backpack in the near future!

I had a last hurrah for coats.  I love making coats, wearing coats, the fabrics that coats are made from, the engineering of coats...all things coats, BUT, I will be living in perpetual summer and coats will not be an important staple of my wardrobe anymore.  So, as I was sorting through my stash and figuring out which pieces would make the cut into my new wardrobe future, there were a couple of pieces that I just had to make, whether or not they ever get worn other than for the pictures in this blog!

The fabric for this coat is a bit of a mystery.  Besides the fact that I can't remember where it came from, I also have no idea what its fiber content is.  It is a chunky sweater knit on one side and has a faux leather look finish on the other side.  Whatever it is I had fun making it into what my Mom would call a "carcoat."  I think that meant that the length of the coat was such that it didn't get caught in the car door when you closed it!  I don't know with this one since it hasn't even been in the car!  

 

My oiled canvas mack!  THIS may be my favorite make of the year, and definitely in the top ten of all times.  The fabric is of course from my first trip to Merchant and Mills.  The pattern is a hack of the one that I tried out during the workshop and the closures came from a marine hardware store in the middle of London.  I may have to take some treks to Wales so I can wander around in the rain!  (Let's hope that can happen soon.)

Along with coats, robes made several appearances in my sewing room this year.  I made one for myself from another lovely linen waffle weave from M&M.  I used the selvedges as the front edge finishes and made as few cuts as possible to shape the neck and shoulders.  I was so pleased with it that I made another version in a light weight linen and then I decided to make a whole pile of them for all of my peeps for Christmas!  What else do you send people who haven't been out of the house in nine months?😫

There were a few projects that really helped me cope with all of the crazy that is swirling around us.  They came at different times and seemed to fill a creative or emotional need.  

In, what Dave Barry in his 2020 Review calls, "Marpril" I, like the rest of the world, was reeling each day as the news or the rumors bombarded me with dread and hopelessness.  Any spark of creativity was totally extinguished and the idea of sewing seemed so trivial.  I did realize that my sewing is what has sustained me through other trying times. (although I have to admit to being lucky that there haven't been many and none can compare to 2020).  When I finally sat down at my sewing machine I just started to stitch.  I wasn't sure what would appear...it turned out to be a hat...of sorts.  It wasn't much to look at, but making it felt doable, and familiar and was what I needed. (BTW, if you haven't read the Dave Barry piece, do)

I of course made my contribution to the mask inventory.  It was harder than I thought to make them.  I knew they were needed, but I so wanted it not to be the case.  I never expected that they would become a wardrobe staple for all of us.

Just as we went into hiding, I had started a project for Threads Insider.  It was a challenge to take a men's suit and reimagine it into a new garment.  I put it aside and didn't get back to it until later in the summer and at that point it was the perfect puzzle to keep my mind from complete mush!  (I had also put together way too many jigsaw puzzles and was ready for another distraction.)

I spent a fair amount of time sorting and organizing my sewing room not only because it was SOMETHING to do, but also anticipating our move to new houses.  I came across a huge linen tablecloth that had been one of my mother in law's wedding gifts.  I had saved it thinking that it would be a tablecloth on one of my tables at some point...that has become a very remote possibility, but it sure looked like 'fabric' when it came out of the trunk this year.  I made two dresses, one for me and one for my sister in law...and still squeaked out a top.  I never imagined the emotional connection that working with that tablecloth made for me.  Again, right project, perfect timing.

Along with my sewing projects I found myself spending a lot of my time in the kitchen, which is not my usual thing.  By mid June I realized that I had not cooked that many days in a row...ever!!!!  I desperately needed some inspiration in the realm of meal planning!  

We had been planning a lovely trip to France this summer which was obviously not going to happen.  I decided that we should take a virtual trip to France.  (I have since heard people refer to this as a "Fake-cation!")  I collected several Provencal recipes and looked for things that we could do that were 'safe.'  We watched french movies,  did a Matisse jigsaw, visited a lavender farm near us, baked french bread, and of course consumed a fair amount of wine!  I was surprised how much it helped to have new recipes to try and things to do.  So when we got back from virtual France we took a virtual road trip and "visited" 15 different US states and tried their signature foods!  I am still enjoying some of the new recipes that I discovered on our fake-cations.

After months of wondering if we would ever get to our new home in Key West, we decided to make the trip.  When we finally got ready to pack the car, it was the sewing machines and the cat that made the cut!  It was definitely not the most enjoyable road trip we have ever taken, but we made it and are now busy getting to know our new place.  It will take some time, since knocking on the neighbors doors and introducing ourselves is not on.  But I'm hopeful that it will be possible very soon.  I am also busy planning and collecting things for my new sewing space which I can't wait to share.  It feels like the perfect way to start a new year.

Looking over the things that I made this past year makes me realize, again, just how NOT normal 2020 was.  My projects seemed random and, for as much time as I spent at home, relatively few.  Moving into 2021 I am cautiously optimistic that we might find more balance and stability, but I am not going to make any plans just yet.  Staying put in our new house and preparing for when we might again welcome visitors is about as far as I am willing to go at the moment.
 

I am so grateful for the community of sewing folks that are part of my life.  It has not only been the actual sewing that has kept me going, but the amazing people who choose to create with scissors and cloth.  Being able to "zoom in" with sewing friends and virtually visit with sewing people all over the world is a true bright spot this past year.  It is also humbling to be part of a group that has rallied their talents in a time when there is so much need.  I thank you, and wish you a new year filled with hope....and sewing!

A Fun Challenge in a Year of Challenges

 I have been waiting all summer to share this...with everything that has happened this year, I had almost forgotten that I had done it. 

Last February the Editors at Threads Magazine proposed a challenge to the 3 Digital Ambassadors.  Start with a men's suit and transform it into a new garment or ensemble.  With the gauntlet thrown, we got to work.  You can see the resulting transformations on theThreads website HERE.

I did a post describing the transformation that I did on the Threads site, so I won't rehash it here.  It was really fun once I finally got an idea that I liked.  It really was a challenge to come up with something a bit different.  At the end of the day, I was very pleased with my efforts.

Looking back with the perspective of the last several months makes it all the more challenging.  We returned from a visit with our son in London on March 10.  On March 11 we did a big shop with the idea that we should probably self isolate since we had been traveling through several airports.  Our plan was to do our 2 weeks and then back to normal!  Oh, how innocent that seems now.  

On the way home from the grocery store I remembered that I needed to get a suit for the Threads challenge.  We made a quick stop at a church thrift shop and bought the one suit that was on the rack, never thinking that it would be the last time I would be in an actual 'shop' for the rest of the year!  

Here are a few pics of the garments that I ended up making.  My idea came from my old gardening overalls. You can read all the gory details in the Threads article.  And they took some much nicer photos that you can also peruse.  They are having readers vote for their favorite transformation, so if you like my idea, give me a vote!  You will also be entered into a drawing for some pretty swell prizes.  

My idea was to make a pair of "business" overalls....

I started with a mock up of the bib part, from there I made a pattern and used different parts of the jacket to add the front, back and straps to my overalls....

The jacket got more and more tattered as I scavenged bits and pieces...

You can't have overalls without a hammer loop!

The lapels were the last bits I salvaged....rather than remake new pieces, I tried to use the suit details in tact but in new ways...

I added the lapels to a piece of fabric from my stash to make a cropped jacket to go with my overalls...

I think they are pretty classy...and kind of silly as well...

I do love that hammer loop!

It all seems like a lifetime ago.  2020 keeps challenging us over and over again...what I wouldn't give for an "easy" garment redo!  I hope our little exercise in recycling adds a bit of fun to your quarantine!  

Who knew?!

Win-win...but not Winter!

I love fall!  I love the cool, crisp air.  I love watching the colors move through their journey from green to yellow and gold, to crimson and rust.  I love the soups and spices that happen this time of year.  The only part that I don't love is knowing that for the next several months I will be battling icy sidewalks, snowdrifts, power outages and arctic windchills.  I know some people love the snow, but as my healing time has lengthened, I am much more worried about tumbling than I used to be.  Cold and snow are parts of the Michigan seasons that I will be glad to watch from a distance.  But for now, I am loving the weather!

Having lived with four seasons all my life, I can't quite wrap my little brain around 'no cold.'  I have been making a new summer wardrobe to have in my new place, but this time of year I am just itching to break out the wool!  To quell the urge I hauled out a cotton jersey that has a mock quilting pattern.  It's kind of a mateliasse kind of thing.  It looks warmer than it is.  I thought it would make a great sweatshirt for the few cool nights that might crop up.  But I didn't want a plain 'ol sweatshirt...I wanted a more 'designery' sweatshirt.  I did some trolling around on Pinterest (you can see some of my finds to the right ->) to see what kind of details might up the cache of my sweatshirt.

I settled on a cropped style with some kind of gathered hem.  As a starting point, I pulled out my tried and true Tabula Rasa pattern.  As I have said before, it seems to cover a huge range of styles and I know it will fit the way I like when I'm finished.  I cut out the main pieces and left them long while I pondered how to finish the hem.  This is just the kind of project I love.  No definite plan, just a sketchy idea and a few detail options to get me going.  I can always hear Diane Ericson in my head, "do the part you know!"

This is also the kind of project that I get caught up in and forget about taking photos of the process.  Ooops! 

I wanted those Kangaroo pouchy front pockets that you get on sweatshirts, but a bit more 'elegant.'  (If "elegant" is a word that you can use to describe a sweatshirt?!)  Tabula Rasa side seams are the perfect place to set in pockets and I decided to line the shirt with a very light weight bamboo knit which meant I could use it for the inside of my pockets by just stitching through from the front.  The seams of the pattern are forward from the actual side of the body so the pocket placement is really ideal for getting your hands in and out easily.

I used the side panel underarm seam as my guide and extended my topstitching to complete the pocket bag.  A little hard to see with all the quilting lines...

I cropped the front and let the back hem hang a bit longer and used the hem allowance to make a casing for a half drawstring across the front.  Again the side seam placement meant the detail was a bit forward which I like.

Serendipity prevailed again when I realized that I could leave the sleeve length and use the lining to make  cuffs.  I love extra long sleeves on cool morning walks to keep my fingers warm!  

One thought that I played with was putting a drawstring at the neck as well.  I made a casing by wrapping a strip of the lining fabric over the neck edge and leaving a 2" space at the center front.  When I got the drawstring in place it was just one thing too many, so I took it out.  When I showed my astute husband my new sweatshirt outfit his comment was, "the neck doesn't look finished."  Rats!  I thought I might be able to sneak it by, but he was right.  He also asked if I was channeling Coco Chanel...?  He thought the short quilted top and the short, straight skirt were very Chanel-esque.  Hmmm...That gave me a new idea for the neckline...thanks Honey!

I created a 1960's-ish collar using a strip of the quilted knit.  Much better.  (and the hubby thought so, too!)

The skirt was a bit of an after thought.  I had exactly a skirt length of fabric left...even the width was right.  I didn't even have to cut anything, just zip up a back seam and put in some elastic.  You can see the wide elastic top in this picture....I was trying to get a twig off the string of lights that hangs over the outside table.  Thanks again Honey!

I really wasn't thinking I was going to end up with a little Chanel Sweat-Suit, but there you go!  It may not make the Paris runways but it is very comfy, cozy and hopefully, a useful wardrobe addition.  AND, a really fun project!  Win-win!

An "Ouch" Pouch

 I saw something recently on Pinterest or Insta-thing or somewhere, and thought it would be a simple, fun little project.  Take part of an afternoon.  Something different than clothing, a bit of a distraction...And it was.  All of that!  Except the 'simple' part!  I said bad words.  And broke fingernails.  And sewing machine needles.  It looked so innocent in the picture.

...isn't it cute?!  A little "back-to-school" pencil case.  Adorable!

I like to use lots of different colored pens and pencils when I write in my journal.  It reminds me of being a kid with a new box of crayons.  I have tried lots of carrying ideas for my stash of writing implements but haven't loved any of them.  This one folds into a tidy pouch about the same size as my journal and keeps everything neat in little inside pockets.  OK!  

There were lots of different patterns, and tutorials and instructions for this particular pencil tote.  I eventually landed on one that I found at a website called "Ikatbag"  Here is the link.  I checked my stash and had all the right stuff.  Even the squishy, car headliner fabric that I had gotten for another innocent looking tote project!  (Maybe I should have been clued in at that point, but no....)

If the material list didn't put me off, maybe I should have paid a bit more attention to the note from the author of the pattern and instructions (which by the way are very good!)...

"Don't be discouraged if you don't find this pouch as easy to make as it might appear, okay? While I wouldn't for a moment consider it difficult (you can make one in a day or less), I'll be honest: it nonetheless IS fiddly. I mean, it's a 3D structure that has a lot of curves in places that are inconvenient, and it's stiff in other places that make it unwieldy to handle. And it has a zipper which, for some people, translates to Ew, Let's Just Give Up Now. I also know that some of you have been waiting for these templates so you can mass-produce them for all your kids' friends, classmates and neighbors. Bravo - mass-producing rocks. However, I'd suggest you try ONE marker pouch before committing to making a hundred. Just thought I'd set the appropriate expectations, in the hope that it will help you guys persevere if you hit a snag or two. You can do it! Many of us have already done it, and are sharing testimonies of how they're still alive after. So don't give up! I think you'll love the outcome."

And, NO, I will not be making a hundred of these as stocking stuffers!

Lest I completely put you off making one of these handy little items, it is doable.  But like she says in her note, it's fiddly and there are a whole bunch of layers to stitch through at certain points. (see needle breakage note.)  I forged ahead, that, "part of an afternoon," turned into the whole dang day!  But I got through it and actually really like my little pencil pouch!  I think the struggle makes it that much more lovable.  Anyway.. I now can tote my plethora of pretty pencils and pens in a perky pouch!

It seems strange that I will geek out on a oiled canvas raincoat with crazy complicated hardware and not think twice about it, or a backpack with a bazillion fiddly pockets...but put a cute little pencil case in front of me and, "boing" I'm a basket case!  I guess everyone has their flavor of challenge.  For now...I'm glad I tried it...and I'm glad it's done! 👍

Just Do It! Raincoat

 I have spent a lot of time during this crazy locked down year sorting and pondering my sewing room 'stuff.'  It is something that I have threatened to do for a long time, but always find something way more interesting to do.  Not only have I had the time to devote to this project, it is also necessary as we work to consolidate and move into a new life phase.  I never thought I would be in the 'snowbird' category, but here I am...and I think I will be quite content to go to snow when I want to rather than struggling through it on a daily basis.  (Although I have realized that wool is still one of my favorite fabrics!)

As I have unloaded drawers and boxes I have come across things that I have moved 4 or 5 times (and I haven't moved in 24 years!!!!)  I am awed by the 'value' that these things have taken on just by the sheer fact that I have paid to have them moved over and over again!  I wonder..."if I haven't used it in 24 years, when?"  I am uncovering long ago abandoned excursions into different 'crafts' that I can't even remember how to do or why. (e.g. wool rug hooking...?????)  Some things I find easy to let go and others touch a memory or a wish that keeps them in the 'undecided' pile a little longer.  

One of the ways that I have been 'processing' is to 'just do it!'  Rather than put something away for later, I just make it.  I have no idea if or when some of these projects will ever be worn or used, but the making seems important somehow.  It is how I am able to let something go I guess.  Sometimes I remember what I had in mind when I acquired the fabric or patten and sometimes I just go with whatever comes to mind right now.  

I came across the oiled canvas that I had gotten for myself at Merchant and Mills a few years ago.  I had gotten some for each of my 'boys' and made coats for them a few Christmases ago.  By the time I finished making theirs I was ready for a break and never made the one for myself.  I had planned to make the M&M Landgate parka.  As I looked at the fabric my practical brain said, "this is not fabric that makes sense in your upcoming summer-all-the-time lifestyle," but my just do it brain kicked in and I ...well...just did it!

I had made a Landgate for my husband and after watching him getting in and out of it, I decided that I would like something that had and easier access point!  I loved the hooded parka that I made during my workshop in Rye and thought that would be a better choice for me.  

I made several changes to the pattern to get the raincoat that I had in my head.  Having worked with the oiled canvas before I knew that 'layers' of fabric were not a good idea.  I minimized as much as possible.  I took out the facings and did simple folded edges for the center fronts.  I narrowed the sleeves so I wouldn't have to ease anything into the armscyes.  I made several changes to get the look that I was after.  I lengthened the coat as much as I could with the amount of yardage I had.  I added a pleat to the center back to give extra width at the hem.  I added way cool pockets (IMHO!) and way, WAY cool closures!  

As I worked my way through the project I completely lost track of time.  I was totally absorbed in the process.  The fabric is really heavy and takes a fair amount of arm strength to wrestle through the machine so I was physically tired at the end of the day, but my brain had had a kind of 'vacation' from 2020 that made me feel refreshed somehow.  Whether or not I actually needed an oiled canvas raincoat was beside the point.  I needed the 'get away.'  I was almost sad to finish it, but am totally in love with it!!!!  I may wear it someday, but that really isn't the goal.  It's all in the making.

So here is my oiled canvas raincoat with marine supply hardware....

I made it as long as I could get it with the fabric that I had.  The sleeves ended up just long enough with no hem allowance, so I used the flannel that I chose for the hood lining to face the cuffs.  It was a happy accident, because I really like the softness of the flannel around my wrists.

I wanted to make sure that when I lengthened the coat that I still had walking room.  I put a pleat in the center back that is sewn down at the top and opens up for hip and walking room.  I also made side slits.

My original plan was to use snaps for the closures so I wouldn't need to put buttonholes in the canvas.  But I remembered the cool clasps that I had found at a marine hardware supply store in London.  I had no idea what I would do with them, but this was the perfect garment to showcase them.  I am so pleased with how they look and they are easy to work as well.  It took a bit of head scratching to figure out how to attach them.  I ended up putting prairie points on the inside of the front bands so the clasps wouldn't be attached to a single layer of the canvas.  I think they are soooo cool!

I had this idea for really huge pockets.  With the amount of fabric that I had I was worried that I wouldn't be able to manage it.  Don't tell anyone, but I ended up putting the center piece of the hood off grain to get the pockets to fit.  It was totally worth it!!

So, this is what I have left of my piece of oiled canvas.  Whew!

Making this coat reminded me of why I sew.  It hasn't been about the clothing for a long time, it is all about the meditative, restorative feeling I get when I am consumed by a project.  Some people paint, some hike in the woods, some float down a river in a kayak...I sew.  Namaste!