2020 in the Rearview Mirror...Whew!

I have been noticing that many folks on Instagram or in their blogs have been doing a bit of 2020 review.  Now, I am not too excited about looking too closely at the year from you-know-where, but I did do some sewing and a little stock taking in that area is always interesting.  I find that each year there are a few themes that pop up.  Some are things that I want to remember and keep, others are, well, meh?  So here are a few observations from the past year...

My love affair with Merchant and Mills was only enhanced by a wonderful week long workshop in adorable Rye, England.  I didn't know it at the time of course, but it would be the last time in 2020 that I actually spent time with anyone except my husband!!!!  (I do have to say how incredibly fortunate I am to have someone that, even after 34 years, I still am glad to hang out with...even though this year has definitely tested those limits.😬)

The best part of any workshop for me is getting to see things in person.  I was very surprised by the patterns I actually chose to make.  They were definitely not the ones I would have expected and I am so happy that I tried them I have used all of them several times since bringing them home to the US.

One of the themes that has dominated the past several years has been BAGS!  You may be happy to hear that the bag trend waned a bit in 2020.  Maybe since I was not going anywhere that required packing, new bags were not top of mind.  I did make the first prototype of a fold over messenger style bag/backpack.  I think it will need a few more trial balloons before it is ready for primetime.  I am hoping that I will need a new backpack in the near future!

I had a last hurrah for coats.  I love making coats, wearing coats, the fabrics that coats are made from, the engineering of coats...all things coats, BUT, I will be living in perpetual summer and coats will not be an important staple of my wardrobe anymore.  So, as I was sorting through my stash and figuring out which pieces would make the cut into my new wardrobe future, there were a couple of pieces that I just had to make, whether or not they ever get worn other than for the pictures in this blog!

The fabric for this coat is a bit of a mystery.  Besides the fact that I can't remember where it came from, I also have no idea what its fiber content is.  It is a chunky sweater knit on one side and has a faux leather look finish on the other side.  Whatever it is I had fun making it into what my Mom would call a "carcoat."  I think that meant that the length of the coat was such that it didn't get caught in the car door when you closed it!  I don't know with this one since it hasn't even been in the car!  

 

My oiled canvas mack!  THIS may be my favorite make of the year, and definitely in the top ten of all times.  The fabric is of course from my first trip to Merchant and Mills.  The pattern is a hack of the one that I tried out during the workshop and the closures came from a marine hardware store in the middle of London.  I may have to take some treks to Wales so I can wander around in the rain!  (Let's hope that can happen soon.)

Along with coats, robes made several appearances in my sewing room this year.  I made one for myself from another lovely linen waffle weave from M&M.  I used the selvedges as the front edge finishes and made as few cuts as possible to shape the neck and shoulders.  I was so pleased with it that I made another version in a light weight linen and then I decided to make a whole pile of them for all of my peeps for Christmas!  What else do you send people who haven't been out of the house in nine months?😫

There were a few projects that really helped me cope with all of the crazy that is swirling around us.  They came at different times and seemed to fill a creative or emotional need.  

In, what Dave Barry in his 2020 Review calls, "Marpril" I, like the rest of the world, was reeling each day as the news or the rumors bombarded me with dread and hopelessness.  Any spark of creativity was totally extinguished and the idea of sewing seemed so trivial.  I did realize that my sewing is what has sustained me through other trying times. (although I have to admit to being lucky that there haven't been many and none can compare to 2020).  When I finally sat down at my sewing machine I just started to stitch.  I wasn't sure what would appear...it turned out to be a hat...of sorts.  It wasn't much to look at, but making it felt doable, and familiar and was what I needed. (BTW, if you haven't read the Dave Barry piece, do)

I of course made my contribution to the mask inventory.  It was harder than I thought to make them.  I knew they were needed, but I so wanted it not to be the case.  I never expected that they would become a wardrobe staple for all of us.

Just as we went into hiding, I had started a project for Threads Insider.  It was a challenge to take a men's suit and reimagine it into a new garment.  I put it aside and didn't get back to it until later in the summer and at that point it was the perfect puzzle to keep my mind from complete mush!  (I had also put together way too many jigsaw puzzles and was ready for another distraction.)

I spent a fair amount of time sorting and organizing my sewing room not only because it was SOMETHING to do, but also anticipating our move to new houses.  I came across a huge linen tablecloth that had been one of my mother in law's wedding gifts.  I had saved it thinking that it would be a tablecloth on one of my tables at some point...that has become a very remote possibility, but it sure looked like 'fabric' when it came out of the trunk this year.  I made two dresses, one for me and one for my sister in law...and still squeaked out a top.  I never imagined the emotional connection that working with that tablecloth made for me.  Again, right project, perfect timing.

Along with my sewing projects I found myself spending a lot of my time in the kitchen, which is not my usual thing.  By mid June I realized that I had not cooked that many days in a row...ever!!!!  I desperately needed some inspiration in the realm of meal planning!  

We had been planning a lovely trip to France this summer which was obviously not going to happen.  I decided that we should take a virtual trip to France.  (I have since heard people refer to this as a "Fake-cation!")  I collected several Provencal recipes and looked for things that we could do that were 'safe.'  We watched french movies,  did a Matisse jigsaw, visited a lavender farm near us, baked french bread, and of course consumed a fair amount of wine!  I was surprised how much it helped to have new recipes to try and things to do.  So when we got back from virtual France we took a virtual road trip and "visited" 15 different US states and tried their signature foods!  I am still enjoying some of the new recipes that I discovered on our fake-cations.

After months of wondering if we would ever get to our new home in Key West, we decided to make the trip.  When we finally got ready to pack the car, it was the sewing machines and the cat that made the cut!  It was definitely not the most enjoyable road trip we have ever taken, but we made it and are now busy getting to know our new place.  It will take some time, since knocking on the neighbors doors and introducing ourselves is not on.  But I'm hopeful that it will be possible very soon.  I am also busy planning and collecting things for my new sewing space which I can't wait to share.  It feels like the perfect way to start a new year.

Looking over the things that I made this past year makes me realize, again, just how NOT normal 2020 was.  My projects seemed random and, for as much time as I spent at home, relatively few.  Moving into 2021 I am cautiously optimistic that we might find more balance and stability, but I am not going to make any plans just yet.  Staying put in our new house and preparing for when we might again welcome visitors is about as far as I am willing to go at the moment.
 

I am so grateful for the community of sewing folks that are part of my life.  It has not only been the actual sewing that has kept me going, but the amazing people who choose to create with scissors and cloth.  Being able to "zoom in" with sewing friends and virtually visit with sewing people all over the world is a true bright spot this past year.  It is also humbling to be part of a group that has rallied their talents in a time when there is so much need.  I thank you, and wish you a new year filled with hope....and sewing!

Just Do It! Raincoat

 I have spent a lot of time during this crazy locked down year sorting and pondering my sewing room 'stuff.'  It is something that I have threatened to do for a long time, but always find something way more interesting to do.  Not only have I had the time to devote to this project, it is also necessary as we work to consolidate and move into a new life phase.  I never thought I would be in the 'snowbird' category, but here I am...and I think I will be quite content to go to snow when I want to rather than struggling through it on a daily basis.  (Although I have realized that wool is still one of my favorite fabrics!)

As I have unloaded drawers and boxes I have come across things that I have moved 4 or 5 times (and I haven't moved in 24 years!!!!)  I am awed by the 'value' that these things have taken on just by the sheer fact that I have paid to have them moved over and over again!  I wonder..."if I haven't used it in 24 years, when?"  I am uncovering long ago abandoned excursions into different 'crafts' that I can't even remember how to do or why. (e.g. wool rug hooking...?????)  Some things I find easy to let go and others touch a memory or a wish that keeps them in the 'undecided' pile a little longer.  

One of the ways that I have been 'processing' is to 'just do it!'  Rather than put something away for later, I just make it.  I have no idea if or when some of these projects will ever be worn or used, but the making seems important somehow.  It is how I am able to let something go I guess.  Sometimes I remember what I had in mind when I acquired the fabric or patten and sometimes I just go with whatever comes to mind right now.  

I came across the oiled canvas that I had gotten for myself at Merchant and Mills a few years ago.  I had gotten some for each of my 'boys' and made coats for them a few Christmases ago.  By the time I finished making theirs I was ready for a break and never made the one for myself.  I had planned to make the M&M Landgate parka.  As I looked at the fabric my practical brain said, "this is not fabric that makes sense in your upcoming summer-all-the-time lifestyle," but my just do it brain kicked in and I ...well...just did it!

I had made a Landgate for my husband and after watching him getting in and out of it, I decided that I would like something that had and easier access point!  I loved the hooded parka that I made during my workshop in Rye and thought that would be a better choice for me.  

I made several changes to the pattern to get the raincoat that I had in my head.  Having worked with the oiled canvas before I knew that 'layers' of fabric were not a good idea.  I minimized as much as possible.  I took out the facings and did simple folded edges for the center fronts.  I narrowed the sleeves so I wouldn't have to ease anything into the armscyes.  I made several changes to get the look that I was after.  I lengthened the coat as much as I could with the amount of yardage I had.  I added a pleat to the center back to give extra width at the hem.  I added way cool pockets (IMHO!) and way, WAY cool closures!  

As I worked my way through the project I completely lost track of time.  I was totally absorbed in the process.  The fabric is really heavy and takes a fair amount of arm strength to wrestle through the machine so I was physically tired at the end of the day, but my brain had had a kind of 'vacation' from 2020 that made me feel refreshed somehow.  Whether or not I actually needed an oiled canvas raincoat was beside the point.  I needed the 'get away.'  I was almost sad to finish it, but am totally in love with it!!!!  I may wear it someday, but that really isn't the goal.  It's all in the making.

So here is my oiled canvas raincoat with marine supply hardware....

I made it as long as I could get it with the fabric that I had.  The sleeves ended up just long enough with no hem allowance, so I used the flannel that I chose for the hood lining to face the cuffs.  It was a happy accident, because I really like the softness of the flannel around my wrists.

I wanted to make sure that when I lengthened the coat that I still had walking room.  I put a pleat in the center back that is sewn down at the top and opens up for hip and walking room.  I also made side slits.

My original plan was to use snaps for the closures so I wouldn't need to put buttonholes in the canvas.  But I remembered the cool clasps that I had found at a marine hardware supply store in London.  I had no idea what I would do with them, but this was the perfect garment to showcase them.  I am so pleased with how they look and they are easy to work as well.  It took a bit of head scratching to figure out how to attach them.  I ended up putting prairie points on the inside of the front bands so the clasps wouldn't be attached to a single layer of the canvas.  I think they are soooo cool!

I had this idea for really huge pockets.  With the amount of fabric that I had I was worried that I wouldn't be able to manage it.  Don't tell anyone, but I ended up putting the center piece of the hood off grain to get the pockets to fit.  It was totally worth it!!

So, this is what I have left of my piece of oiled canvas.  Whew!

Making this coat reminded me of why I sew.  It hasn't been about the clothing for a long time, it is all about the meditative, restorative feeling I get when I am consumed by a project.  Some people paint, some hike in the woods, some float down a river in a kayak...I sew.  Namaste!

The Perfect Travel Bag...Again!

I rose on Sunday morning (and let me be clear....it was April 28!!!!!) to this winter fantasyland scene.  While I certainly can appreciate the lovely, sparkly, crispness....IT'S APRIL 28!!!!  The saving grace was knowing that it would be gone by dinner time.  I decided to avoid the whole thing by hiding out in my sewing room.  

My son visited from London a few weeks ago and brought with him a wonderful duffle bag made out of waxed cotton.  It had an ingenious zipper pocket that opened the full length of the duffle and folded down when closed to create a tidy sized backpack.  

Several of my family members and friends have not just noticed, but commented on my growing fascination with bags.  (some may even have gone as far as calling it an obsession!)  Whatever...

I studied the bag, thoroughly.  It was definitely too large for a purse/backpack, but the clever opening got me thinking....

I have a pile-o-scraps left from my waxed cotton adventures last December, so I started with a pocket idea and scraps.  

My increase in traveling over the last few years has helped me hone in on what it is I like about my travel bags.  There are several 'must have' options that I wanted to incorporate into my waxed cotton backpack...

-  Yes, I do like to have a backpack.  I find if I have a one shoulder bag to haul for any extended amount of time I get all twisted to one side.  Much better to have a balanced load on both shoulders.

- Pockets!!!  Plenty!!!  There are several pockets and pocket placements that have become non-negotiable for me.   I want a phone pocket that is on the back side of the pack and opens to the side.  This allows me to swing the pack around on my shoulder and retrieve the phone quickly.  Also, pockets on the back side are more secure than front pockets.

I want a pocket for my wallet, another for my sunglasses/reading glasses, one for all the small stuff that wanders around on the bottom of a bag and is never seen again, and a place for keys to attach.  If I get many more than that I just get too confused!

When I travel I want to take things in a carry-on that I don't necessarily want to carry all the time, i.e. knitting, snacks, a sweater,  a water bottle, maybe my laptop.  BUT, most carry-on bags are too big for wandering around London for the whole day...dilemma!

My plan was to create a backpack that would accommodate my travel needs AND not be too big for a daypack.  I love a challenge!

I spent some time working out the details and running up a couple of prototypes. My plan also had to take into consideration the waxed cotton.  I had to be careful not to gang up too many pockets, linings, stabilizers, straps etc, or I would go through too many machine needles!

My pattern included pockets made from light weight slippery lining to make retrieving things easier, a fully lined big 'cavity' pocket and four zippers of varying lengths.

Just figuring out what pieces to cut out of which fabrics was crazy making!

I worked in segments and then put everything together....here are several of the pocket segments ready to go...

When it finally came together I got pretty darned excited!  (Maybe obsession isn't that far off?!)  Let me give you a tour of my new travel backpack...

Two zipper pocket on the back side...

the top pocket has inside pockets for my wallet, glasses, and keys...

the bottom pocket, with requisite side zip, is just the perfect size for my cell phone.

             

There is another pocket in the front flap that can hold the little stuff, lip gloss, breath mints, nail file...

So that takes care of the 'walking-around-everyday' stuff.  Now for the extra 'what-I-want-on-the-plane' stuff.

 

Here's where my son's duffle bag comes into the picture...

Voila!  Under the front flap/pocket is the biggo cavity that flattens out when nothing is inside it, or can grow to accommodate lots of plane snacks or London shopping finds as needed!

                  

To keep it tidy there is a buckle that can be cinched down depending on the load.

And you might think that so many wonderful features had to come in a monster size...but...It all fits in a neat, perfectly sized package!  AND, don't you think a waxed canvas backpack with black metal buckles is totally cool and hipster for an old lady?!  Please excuse my exuberance...I just get so carried away!

By dinnertime the snow was history and I had yet another 'perfect travel bag.'  I think I'll go buy a plane ticket!

 

Merry Christmas and Coats for Everyone!

Whew!  I think Christmas may be over for this year?  There is nothing left in the 'pile-o-gifts' that has been taking up the end of my sewing room counter, so I think we may be done.  The last celebration was with my youngest son who spent a lovely holiday in San Fransisco and left his busy little rescued pup with us for four days.  When he returned this weekend we had a lovely brunch and had to send little Gizmo home... along with the last of the gift pile.

Taking care of Gizmo was really fun and really tiring!  I had forgotten how busy a pup can be, particularly one that is discovering a new place.  She was really efficient at finding all the things that are NOT for dogs!  But I also loved that she needed to go for walks!  Just the motivation I needed to get my over indulged holiday self outside!

As part of our 'puppy instructions' we learned that Gizmo sometimes gets cold and shivers when she is outside for too long.  Well, that won't do!  I figured I could do something about that.  I had made coats for everyone else this year...why not the little dog, too.

Believe it or not, I do not happen to have a dog coat pattern in my stash, which meant that I had to come up with one.  It is not so easy to measure a dog.  She thought I was trying to play and kept trying to 'tug of war' with my tape measure!  Eventually I got the two measurements I needed and made a quick Trial Balloon to see if my idea would actually work.  ...it did!

Here is my first try...

    

I used the scraps from the Francine top that I had made for my son's girlfriend.  It is a soft almost blanket like fabric and made an excellent doggy coat as well.

For the 'real' version I fished a coat that my husband was planning to donate out of the Goodwill box and went to town!

     

                

I'm not sure Gizmo is as pleased as I am with the result, but she is a very good sport and wears her coats without a fuss.  In fact, she seems to quite like them, and we had no shivers, even on our longer walks!

It was much easier to tell that my husband and son were pleased with their respective Merchant and Mills Landgate jackets.  They both picked the same pattern and the same fabric.  After setting the sleeves in my older son's Foreman jacket I was glad that they had chosen the raglan sleeve coat, until I started wrestling with the hood and the sheer volume of the pattern.  Oiled canvas is a workout no matter what pattern you use!

         

I continue to be impressed with the Merchant and Mills patterns.  The instructions for the zipper and hood are really great, and the results are so professional.  

          

I have enough fabric to make a coat for myself....I think I will take a bit of a break before another round with oiled canvas...my sewing machine needs a break as well!

Here's my son giving me his best 'high fashion model' pout....

      

With sooooo much Christmas this year I haven't even thought about my upcoming Key West adventure!  😳  Happy New Year...and here we go again!